Mains
What you take home from the kitchens we cover. Few ingredients, one balance to get right.
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Roast chicken recipe: foil first, then high heat for the skin
Toño Rodríguez, the Michelin-starred chef from Aragon, seals the tray in foil so the chicken cooks as if steamed, then uncovers it to brown. The house version, scaled to a whole 1.6 kg bird.
Black daal recipe: Dishoom's slow-cooked Bombay classic
Whole urad lentils simmered for hours until they turn creamy on their own, finished with butter and cream the way Bombay's Irani cafés always served them.
Goulash recipe: Hungary's paprika beef soup from the kettle
Beef shin, slowly sweated onions, sweet paprika and caraway, finished with potatoes and pinched csipetke noodles: the herdsmen's soup that became Hungary's national dish.
Beef rendang recipe: Malaysia's slow-cooked classic
With WAU bringing a full Malaysian menu to Milan this month, Amuse Kitchen's version shows why rendang takes two hours, not twenty minutes, to get right.
Tacos al pastor recipe: Mexico City's spit-roast taco at home
Chilli-and-achiote pork, charred pineapple and hot corn tortillas: a home version of the taquería classic, cooked in a cast-iron pan instead of on a vertical spit.
Hutspot recipe: Leiden's carrot mash with braised beef
Potatoes, winter carrots and onions cooked in one pot and mashed by hand, with beef braised until it falls apart: the dish Leiden has eaten every 3 October since the siege of 1574.
Tagliatelle al ragù recipe: Bologna's slow-cooked meat sauce
Pancetta, beef, soffritto, wine and milk, then three hours at a bare simmer: the city's registered ragù, revised in 2023, rewritten for a home kitchen.
Marmitako recipe: the Basque albacore stew from the boats
Albacore, potatoes and choricero pepper in a single pot: the stew Basque tuna crews cooked at sea, timed so the fish never boils and stays juicy.
Galbi-jjim recipe: Korean braised short ribs for Chuseok
Korea's harvest festival falls on 25 September, and its centrepiece is galbi-jjim: beef short ribs braised in soy, pear and garlic, following Maangchi's method.
Matsutake gohan recipe: Japan's wild autumn rice
The wild matsutake mushroom has a six-week season in Japan that starts this month. The classic technique: never wash the mushroom, never stir the rice, let the steam do the rest.
Bobotie, South Africa's Classic Baked Mince Dish
A South African staple from Cape Town's Cape Malay kitchens: spiced mince baked under an egg custard, sweetened with apricot jam and raisins.
Arroz de pato recipe, Braga's oven-baked duck rice
Northern Portugal's Easter classic, made the house way: one duck supplies the meat, the fat and the stock, and chouriço crisps the top in the oven.
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