Recipes
What you take home from the kitchens we cover. Few ingredients, one balance to get right.
Pumpkin and chestnut velouté recipe for the first cold week
Roasting the pumpkin instead of boiling it is what separates a thin autumn soup from one with real backbone, and chestnuts do the thickening.
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Black truffle tagliolini recipe: Umbria's plain classic
Butter, pasta water and parmesan carry fresh black truffle through this Norcia staple, timed to the season that opens across Umbria this month.
Bagna cauda recipe: Asti's slow garlic and anchovy dip
Piedmont's autumn starter comes down to one technique: garlic and anchovies melted into olive oil over the lowest flame. Here it is for four, with the vegetables to dip.
Chettinad chicken curry recipe: the roast-and-grind method
Tamil Nadu's signature curry gets its depth from whole spices roasted before grinding, not after. Here's the Chettinad technique, with or without the region's hardest-to-find aromatics.
Dark chocolate mousse recipe: the no-cream Belgian way
Just chocolate, eggs and a little sugar, whipped and folded the classic way, the week Belgium hosted the World Chocolate Masters and an Italian chocolatier took the title.
Lamb Tagine Recipe: Honey, Apricots and a Slow Braise
A Moroccan mrouzia-style lamb tagine recipe: shoulder braised until it falls apart, finished with honey, apricots and toasted almonds in a glossy, reduced sauce.
Linzer torte recipe: Austria's oldest named cake
Austria's oldest recorded cake recipe: a hazelnut pastry ring with redcurrant jam, traced to a 1653 manuscript at Admont Abbey, rebuilt with today's proportions and a reason for every step.
Nashville hot chicken recipe: the cayenne-oil finish
Tennessee's fried chicken gets its heat from a paste whisked into the chicken's own frying oil, brushed on only after the pieces leave the pot, not poured over as a sauce.
Pumpkin risotto recipe: the Mantovana way with sage
Roasting the squash before it meets the rice is what keeps this autumn risotto tasting of pumpkin instead of watered-down orange starch.
Canelé recipe: Bordeaux's caramelized custard pastry
A fluted French pastry with a bitter-dark crust and a wobbling custard center, built on a 24-hour batter rest and a two-stage oven heat that bakers in Bordeaux never skip.
Pink fir potatoes recipe: Opheem's pickle-spiced starter
Mustard oil, whole pickling spice and tamarind turn waxy pink fir apple potatoes into the kind of starter Birmingham's Opheem built its reputation on.
Tiradito recipe: Lima's sashimi-style answer to ceviche
Chef Virgilio Martínez of Central, ranked Latin America's best restaurant, slices white fish sashimi-thin and dresses it with lime and ají amarillo — no marinating required.
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