Desserts
What you take home from the kitchens we cover. Few ingredients, one balance to get right.
Torta di nocciole recipe: Cortemilia's Piedmont hazelnut cake
Toasted hazelnuts make up 40 per cent of this Alta Langa farmhouse cake, so the nuts decide everything: how they are roasted, skinned and ground.
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Zwetschgendatschi recipe: Augsburg's Bavarian plum sheet cake
Augsburg's thin yeast-dough plum cake, rebuilt by Amuse Kitchen for mid-September Zwetschgen: breadcrumbs under the fruit, plums packed upright and cinnamon sugar straight from the oven.
Quince tarte Tatin recipe, France's autumn upside-down tart
This quince tarte Tatin recipe poaches the fruit first, then reduces the syrup to caramel in the pan — the technique that turns hard, pale quince tender and rose-pink under puff pastry.
Schiacciata all'uva Recipe: Tuscany's Grape-Harvest Bread
A saltless Tuscan grape-harvest flatbread, baked hot around whole black wine grapes until the skins blister and caramelize at the edges of a golden crust.
Payesh recipe, the Bengali rice pudding worth the stirring
Gobindobhog rice simmered slowly in milk until it collapses into a loose, fragrant pudding, cardamom and nuts folded in right at the end.
Poached pears in Port recipe, made for Port Wine Day
A Douro classic for 10 September, the date the region was demarcated in 1756: firm pears, ruby Port and a syrup reduced only after the fruit comes out.
Fig, orange and mascarpone, the way the kitchen does it
Six ingredients and one balance to get right. The figs have to caramelise properly and the mascarpone must not be overworked, or the dish turns into a pudding.
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