Technique
What you take home from the kitchens we cover. Few ingredients, one balance to get right.
Nashville hot chicken recipe: the cayenne-oil finish
Tennessee's fried chicken gets its heat from a paste whisked into the chicken's own frying oil, brushed on only after the pieces leave the pot, not poured over as a sauce.
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Bacalao al pil-pil recipe: Bilbao's trembling cod sauce
No cream, no flour, no stock: the pil-pil sauce is cod skin, garlic oil and gentle heat, swirled into an emulsion that Basque cooks still get wrong by rushing it.
Bouillabaisse recipe: Marseille's two-stage fish stew
The Mediterranean fishermen's stew splits into broth and fish, a method the city's 1980 charter wrote down to keep the dish honest.
Jollof rice recipe: West Africa's smoky party classic
Nigeria's party rice gets its colour from a slow-cooked tomato base, and its signature smokiness from a deliberate scorch at the bottom of the pot.
Lanzhou beef noodle soup recipe: the hand-pulled technique
A clear broth, red chilli oil and noodles stretched by hand, not cut: the five-element bowl that built Lanzhou's reputation as a breakfast city.
Hoshigaki recipe: Japan's hand-massaged dried persimmons
Astringent persimmons, peeled, strung and massaged by hand for weeks until their own sugar rises to the skin: the traditional Japanese way to turn an unripe fruit into a concentrated autumn sweet.
Tajarin al tartufo: Piedmont's yolk-rich pasta technique
Alba's 96th white truffle fair opens this month, the moment to explain why tajarin dough runs on egg yolks alone, rested until silky and thin.
Fettunta recipe: Tuscany's new-oil toast, done right
Fettunta is the simplest test of new-season olive oil: toasted bread, garlic, salt, and as much green, peppery oil as the bread will hold.
Sauerkraut recipe: how to ferment cabbage the Alsace way
White cabbage, 2 per cent salt and three to four weeks at room temperature: the lactic fermentation behind choucroute, timed for the Alsace cabbage harvest that peaks in October.
Roasted porcini and potatoes recipe, staggered on the tray
Chef Gianluca Deiana Abis roasts potatoes and porcini in two separate stages on the same tray, so neither one steams the other into softness.
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