Starters
What you take home from the kitchens we cover. Few ingredients, one balance to get right.
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Pajeon recipe: Korea's crispy scallion pancake
Seoul's everyday street-food pancake gets its crunch from rice flour, not wheat, as the city's restaurant scene draws new international attention this month.
Gyoza recipe: pan-fried dumplings with a crisp lace crust
Pork, cabbage and nira dumplings fried, steamed and fried again, from the Japanese city that built its name on gyoza and holds its 26th festival in November.
Welsh rarebit recipe: a pub classic done properly
Melted cheddar sharpened with mustard and ale, grilled onto thick toast until it blisters: a pub classic, best eaten the moment it leaves the grill.
Pastéis de bacalhau recipe: Lisbon’s salt cod cakes at home
Equal weights of soaked salt cod and dry potato, beaten with egg until light, shaped between two spoons and fried at 170°C. The Lisbon snack, step by step, with the reason behind each move.
Croquetas de jamón recipe: the béchamel that does not burst
Milk infused with ham bone, a roux cooked for 4 minutes, a béchamel for 20 and a night in the fridge. About 35 Spanish ham croquettes, fried at 180 °C, with the reason behind each step.
Gougères recipe: Burgundy's cheese puffs for the aperitif
Savoury choux pastry with Comté, dried on the stove and baked in a hot oven that then drops to 180 °C. About 36 puffs in 50 minutes, with the reason behind each step.
Escalivada recipe: Catalonia's smoky roast vegetables
Aubergines, red peppers and onions go into the oven whole and come out black. What happens next, under a plate and between the fingers, decides whether the dish works.
Tortellini in brodo recipe: Bologna’s registered filling
Pork loin browned in butter, prosciutto, mortadella and Parmigiano Reggiano, folded into 3 cm squares and cooked in capon and beef broth: the 1974 Bologna formula, scaled for a home kitchen.
Hungarian goulash recipe: the herdsmen's paprika pot
Beef and onions stewed in their own juices, paprika stirred in off the heat and egg noodles pinched into the pot: the house method for the dish of Hungary's cattle herders.
Caldo verde recipe: northern Portugal’s kale and potato soup
Floury potatoes, olive oil and greens sliced almost as thin as thread: the Minho soup that Porto eats at São João, with the timing that keeps it bright green.
Muhammara recipe: Aleppo's red pepper and walnut dip
Charred red peppers, toasted walnuts, breadcrumbs and pomegranate molasses: the Aleppo mezze that turns the last peppers of the season into a thick, sweet-sour spread.
French onion soup recipe: the Paris bistro classic
An hour of slow browning, a splash of white wine and a cheese lid that reaches the rim: the house method for the soup Paris once ate at dawn in Les Halles.
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