Thursday, 17 September 2026 · Amsterdam
Hospitality & Culinary
Media Platform
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SustainabilityNetherlands

Twenty-three green stars, and only eight of them shine twice

Sustainability now has its own scoreboard in the Dutch guide. Most of the kitchens on it hold no regular star at all, and that is the interesting part.

Rows of vegetables in a kitchen garden used by a restaurant
Photograph · Unsplash · Unsplash License

The green star was introduced to recognise kitchens taking sustainability seriously. In the Netherlands there are now twenty-three of them. Only eight also hold at least one regular Michelin star.

What the green stars measure

Read that the other way round and it gets interesting. Fifteen restaurants in this country are formally recognised for how they source, waste and grow, and are not recognised at all for what they cook. Whatever the intention, the effect is a second-tier list.

Fifteen kitchens are being told they are doing the right thing, and nothing else.

Some of those kitchens are genuinely doing the most difficult version of this work: growing their own, buying whole animals, building menus around what actually exists in the Netherlands in February. None of that shortens a service or lowers a wage bill.

It also does not insulate anyone from the market. The sourcing decisions a green star rewards are the same ones that leave a kitchen exposed when a crop comes in short, which is the position West African cocoa growers are heading into this month. Buying closer and buying whole is a strategy, not a hedge.

What happens next

The counter-argument is that the two awards measure different things and should not be forced together. Fair enough. But guests do not read them as separate scoreboards, and neither do banks.

The first Dutch green star went to Bolenius in 2021, which makes this a five-year-old experiment rather than a settled category. Both awards are read out at the same ceremony, at MECC Maastricht on 5 October, from the same stage and by the same guide.

What a green star does not do is change the arithmetic of a dining room. It brings no extra covers on a Tuesday, no reduction in energy costs and no protection from a supplier who cannot deliver. It brings attention, which a kitchen converts into bookings only if the cooking is already worth booking. That is why the eight matter more than the twenty-three.

The number to watch is not twenty-three. It is eight, and whether it grows.

Sources

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