Recipes
What you take home from the kitchens we cover. Few ingredients, one balance to get right.
Latest
Gyoza recipe: pan-fried dumplings with a crisp lace crust
Pork, cabbage and nira dumplings fried, steamed and fried again, from the Japanese city that built its name on gyoza and holds its 26th festival in November.
Patatas a la riojana recipe from the grape harvest
This potato and chorizo stew from La Rioja gets its thick broth from cracking, not cutting, the potatoes before they simmer.
Arroz a banda recipe: Alicante's fish-stock rice with alioli
The fishermen's rice of Alicante, cooked in rockfish stock with cuttlefish and ñora, as 52 restaurants in the city put it at the centre of their autumn menus.
Welsh rarebit recipe: a pub classic done properly
Melted cheddar sharpened with mustard and ale, grilled onto thick toast until it blisters: a pub classic, best eaten the moment it leaves the grill.
Pastéis de bacalhau recipe: Lisbon’s salt cod cakes at home
Equal weights of soaked salt cod and dry potato, beaten with egg until light, shaped between two spoons and fried at 170°C. The Lisbon snack, step by step, with the reason behind each move.
Lamington recipe: the sponge that survives the chocolate dip
A hot-milk sponge baked the day before, frozen for an hour, dipped in thin cocoa icing and rolled in coconut. Fifteen squares of Queensland’s best-known cake, with the reason for each step.
Tortelli di zucca recipe: Mantua's pumpkin and amaretti pasta
The dish Mantua builds its Christmas Eve table around pairs roasted pumpkin with crushed amaretti and mostarda, folded into egg pasta and finished in sage butter.
Croquetas de jamón recipe: the béchamel that does not burst
Milk infused with ham bone, a roux cooked for 4 minutes, a béchamel for 20 and a night in the fridge. About 35 Spanish ham croquettes, fried at 180 °C, with the reason behind each step.
Ribollita recipe: the Tuscan soup that is boiled twice
Dried cannellini, cavolo nero, savoy cabbage and stale unsalted bread, cooked one day and boiled again the next. Six portions, with the reason behind every step.
Moussaka recipe: the Greek classic, layer by layer
Roasted aubergine, a lamb ragù cooked until dry and a béchamel set with egg yolks and kefalotyri. Six servings, 180 °C, and a 30-minute rest before the knife goes in.
Gougères recipe: Burgundy's cheese puffs for the aperitif
Savoury choux pastry with Comté, dried on the stove and baked in a hot oven that then drops to 180 °C. About 36 puffs in 50 minutes, with the reason behind each step.
Koshari recipe: Cairo's street bowl of rice, lentils and pasta
Egypt's everyday dish stacks rice, brown lentils, pasta and chickpeas under a vinegar-sharpened tomato sauce and dark fried onions. A house version for four, with the reason behind each step.
The best of the month,
once a month.
The openings of the month, the chefs to watch, the recipes and the figures that matter. Once a month in your inbox, five minutes, nothing else.
What lands in your inbox
- The places worth booking this month
- The opening everyone is talking about
- The recipes of the month, from the kitchens we cover
- The figures that matter, with their source