Recipes
What you take home from the kitchens we cover. Few ingredients, one balance to get right.
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Pumpkin pie recipe: the 1796 American custard pie
A spiced pumpkin custard in a blind-baked crust, set at a gentle heat so it slices clean. The method follows Amelia Simmons' 1796 American Cookery; the quantities are ours.
Gnocchi alla sorrentina recipe: Naples' baked tomato classic
Potato gnocchi get boiled just until they float, then finished in the oven, so the tomato sauce and mozzarella blister into a crust instead of staying a sauce you spoon over pasta.
Fennel and orange salad recipe, Palermo's winter staple
Shaved fennel, orange and black olives: a Sicilian salad built to cut through heavy winter food, with sharpness timed to the very last step.
Hoshigaki recipe: Japan's hand-massaged dried persimmons
Astringent persimmons, peeled, strung and massaged by hand for weeks until their own sugar rises to the skin: the traditional Japanese way to turn an unripe fruit into a concentrated autumn sweet.
Provoleta recipe: Argentina's grilled cheese, before the steak
A thick disc of aged provolone, seared hard in a cast-iron pan until it forms a crust around a molten centre — the starter every Argentine parrilla serves before the meat arrives.
Puntarelle alla romana recipe: Rome's winter salad
A puntarelle alla romana recipe built on one trick: ice water curls the bitter chicory shoots before the anchovy dressing goes anywhere near them.
Tarte Tatin recipe: the Sologne upside-down apple tart
Apples cooked to amber in butter and sugar, a pastry lid, one quick flip: the method from the Hôtel Tatin in Lamotte-Beuvron, explained step by step.
Risotto al tartufo bianco: Piedmont's plainest great dish
A classic Piedmontese risotto built to carry raw white truffle, not compete with it. Rice, stock, butter and nothing that would get in the way.
Tajarin al tartufo: Piedmont's yolk-rich pasta technique
Alba's 96th white truffle fair opens this month, the moment to explain why tajarin dough runs on egg yolks alone, rested until silky and thin.
Pajeon recipe: Korea's crispy scallion pancake
Seoul's everyday street-food pancake gets its crunch from rice flour, not wheat, as the city's restaurant scene draws new international attention this month.
Khachapuri recipe: Imereti's cheese bread, done right
A pan-cooked, egg-yolk-finished take on Imeruli khachapuri, the everyday cheese bread of western Georgia, with the technique a Georgian kitchen in London keeps on its menu.
Fettunta recipe: Tuscany's new-oil toast, done right
Fettunta is the simplest test of new-season olive oil: toasted bread, garlic, salt, and as much green, peppery oil as the bread will hold.
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