Recipes
What you take home from the kitchens we cover. Few ingredients, one balance to get right.
Latest
Nihari recipe: the lamb shank stew on Oorja's menu
Amuse Kitchen's version of the Old Delhi classic now on the menu at Oorja Marylebone, thickened the traditional way with a wheat-flour slurry.
Castagnaccio recipe: Tuscany's chestnut flour cake, Artusi's way
Chestnut flour, water, olive oil, pine nuts and rosemary: the Tuscan autumn cake Artusi listed as recipe 240, baked thin so the top cracks and the centre stays soft.
Ox cheek cottage pie recipe: Adam Byatt's porter braise
A three-hour porter braise turns a cheap, hard-working cut into a pie the mash can barely hold down, built by the chef behind Clapham's Trinity and Wandsworth's Rosina.
Cassoulet recipe: the Castelnaudary way, crust and all
Lingot beans, duck confit, Toulouse sausage and an earthenware cassole: the slow-baked dish of the Lauragais, following the town brotherhood's reference recipe.
Tres leches cake recipe: the milk-soaked Latin American sponge
A sponge raised only by whipped eggs, soaked in condensed, evaporated and whole milk and chilled overnight: the Latin American cake, after chef Pati Jinich's method.
Chicken yassa recipe: Dakar NOLA's Senegalese braise
Lemon, mustard and a mountain of caramelized onions: the chicken dish chef Serigne Mbaye grew up on, now served at his newly Michelin-starred Dakar NOLA in New Orleans.
Pan con tomate recipe: the bread Catalonia doesn't cook
Four ingredients, no stove beyond the toaster, and no real cooking at all. The whole dish rests on the bread, the ripe tomato and, above all, the olive oil you choose to finish it.
Borscht recipe: Ukraine's beetroot soup, Klopotenko's way
Roasted pork ribs, beetroot added twice and a smoked dried pear: the Ukrainian borscht that chef Ievgen Klopotenko took to UNESCO, rewritten as a starter for six.
Æblekage recipe: Denmark's apple trifle without an oven
Denmark's layered apple dessert pairs stewed fruit with butter-toasted rye crumbs and whipped cream, built cold in a glass with no cake tin in sight.
Ossobuco alla milanese recipe: veal shank, gremolata, no tomato
Milan's braised veal shank is cooked white, in butter, wine and broth, and finished with raw lemon, garlic and parsley. The broth level decides everything.
Lanzhou beef noodle soup recipe: the hand-pulled technique
A clear broth, red chilli oil and noodles stretched by hand, not cut: the five-element bowl that built Lanzhou's reputation as a breakfast city.
Pulpo a la gallega recipe: Galicia's fair-style octopus
Galicia boils its octopus whole, cuts it with scissors onto a wooden plate, and dresses it with nothing but pimentón, salt and good olive oil.
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