Recipes
What you take home from the kitchens we cover. Few ingredients, one balance to get right.
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Pastel de nata recipe: Lisbon’s blistered custard tart
Spiralled puff pastry, a syrup-based custard and an oven at full blast: how to bake the Belém tart at home, from the 1837 monastery recipe to the charred top.
Sauerkraut recipe: how to ferment cabbage the Alsace way
White cabbage, 2 per cent salt and three to four weeks at room temperature: the lactic fermentation behind choucroute, timed for the Alsace cabbage harvest that peaks in October.
Goulash recipe: Hungary's paprika beef soup from the kettle
Beef shin, slowly sweated onions, sweet paprika and caraway, finished with potatoes and pinched csipetke noodles: the herdsmen's soup that became Hungary's national dish.
Muhammara recipe: Aleppo's red pepper and walnut dip
Charred red peppers, toasted walnuts, breadcrumbs and pomegranate molasses: the Aleppo mezze that turns the last peppers of the season into a thick, sweet-sour spread.
Baklava recipe: Gaziantep's pistachio pastry at home
Buttered filo, a thick layer of green pistachios and cold syrup poured over the tray straight from the oven: the Gaziantep way with baklava, adapted for a home kitchen.
Beef rendang recipe: Malaysia's slow-cooked classic
With WAU bringing a full Malaysian menu to Milan this month, Amuse Kitchen's version shows why rendang takes two hours, not twenty minutes, to get right.
Apple strudel recipe: Vienna's hand-stretched Apfelstrudel
Paper-thin pulled dough, tart apples, rum-soaked raisins and buttery breadcrumbs: the Viennese Apfelstrudel explained step by step, with the reason behind each move.
Tacos al pastor recipe: Mexico City's spit-roast taco at home
Chilli-and-achiote pork, charred pineapple and hot corn tortillas: a home version of the taquería classic, cooked in a cast-iron pan instead of on a vertical spit.
Quince tart recipe, the slow-poached way
Amuse Kitchen poaches quince slowly until it turns rose-pink, then bakes it into a French-style almond tart for the last hard fruit of the autumn.
Hutspot recipe: Leiden's carrot mash with braised beef
Potatoes, winter carrots and onions cooked in one pot and mashed by hand, with beef braised until it falls apart: the dish Leiden has eaten every 3 October since the siege of 1574.
Roasted porcini and potatoes recipe, staggered on the tray
Chef Gianluca Deiana Abis roasts potatoes and porcini in two separate stages on the same tray, so neither one steams the other into softness.
French onion soup recipe: the Paris bistro classic
An hour of slow browning, a splash of white wine and a cheese lid that reaches the rim: the house method for the soup Paris once ate at dawn in Les Halles.
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