Recipes
What you take home from the kitchens we cover. Few ingredients, one balance to get right.
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Seadas recipe: Sardinia's fried cheese pastry with honey
Semolina pastry shortened with lard, a disc of young sheep's cheese and lemon zest, fried at 170°C and finished with bitter honey. A shepherds' dish from central Sardinia that became a dessert.
Mont Blanc recipe: Paris chestnut dessert, step by step
A meringue disc, a dome of barely sweetened cream and a mountain of chestnut threads: the tea-room classic, timed for the first chestnuts of the year.
Lemon olive oil cake recipe for new-season oil
A two-bowl Mediterranean cake built to show off the first green oil of the year, with lemon to carry the bitterness rather than hide it.
Tagliatelle al ragù recipe: Bologna's slow-cooked meat sauce
Pancetta, beef, soffritto, wine and milk, then three hours at a bare simmer: the city's registered ragù, revised in 2023, rewritten for a home kitchen.
Torta di nocciole recipe: Cortemilia's Piedmont hazelnut cake
Toasted hazelnuts make up 40 per cent of this Alta Langa farmhouse cake, so the nuts decide everything: how they are roasted, skinned and ground.
Marmitako recipe: the Basque albacore stew from the boats
Albacore, potatoes and choricero pepper in a single pot: the stew Basque tuna crews cooked at sea, timed so the fish never boils and stays juicy.
Elote recipe: Mexican grilled corn with chile and lime
Charred corn brushed with crema, rolled in cotija and dusted with chile, the street-food base behind the corn-driven tasting menus now earning Michelin stars.
Galbi-jjim recipe: Korean braised short ribs for Chuseok
Korea's harvest festival falls on 25 September, and its centrepiece is galbi-jjim: beef short ribs braised in soy, pear and garlic, following Maangchi's method.
Zwetschgendatschi recipe: Augsburg's Bavarian plum sheet cake
Augsburg's thin yeast-dough plum cake, rebuilt by Amuse Kitchen for mid-September Zwetschgen: breadcrumbs under the fruit, plums packed upright and cinnamon sugar straight from the oven.
Baba Ganoush Recipe: Ottolenghi's Charred Aubergine Dip
A coarse, smoky Levantine aubergine dip built on fire rather than a blender, made the way chef Yotam Ottolenghi publishes it: charred whole, drained, and dressed with pomegranate molasses.
Matsutake gohan recipe: Japan's wild autumn rice
The wild matsutake mushroom has a six-week season in Japan that starts this month. The classic technique: never wash the mushroom, never stir the rice, let the steam do the rest.
Bobotie, South Africa's Classic Baked Mince Dish
A South African staple from Cape Town's Cape Malay kitchens: spiced mince baked under an egg custard, sweetened with apricot jam and raisins.
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